Cosmetic ingredients developed from by-products of other manufacturing processes, often from the food industry, are not entirely new. Many ingredients have been developed in upcycled form for years, but the release of new upcycled ingredients and research into new sources is gaining momentum in 2021.

NYSCC supplier days showcased a wide variety of ingredient types, including powders, antioxidants and preservatives. Many of these ingredients are supported by research and perform as well or better than their synthetic counterparts.

Researchers have published papers on the use of many types of byproducts, including those from beer making, wine making and olive oil production. Over the next year, many of these new ingredients and research may be realized in products on the market.

As consumers become more interested in sustainability and ingredients in cosmetics, upcycled ingredients are becoming an increasingly marketable feature in products. While consumers in the past may not have found ingredients made from manufacturing waste attractive, they are increasingly willing to participate in a circular business model.


Upcycled ingredients also offer the benefits of using online beauty store a sustainability statement, which is available in the United States. While many sustainable product terms are relatively undefined in the U.S. compared to other markets, upcycled claims are easily justified in order to avoid greenwashing.

Highly effective botanicals

As with upcycling, botanical ingredients are not new to the marketplace. However, in the past, the use of botanical ingredients has often meant reduced performance or higher prices, but those days may be coming to an end.

Biotechnology research and development has helped botanical ingredients catch up with synthetics in many ways and in many ingredient categories.

Colombian company Sanam has introduced a cosmetic antioxidant derived from coffee cherries that is more effective than two synthetics in reducing ROS from blue light and urban dust exposure.

Genomatica, a U.S. biotechnology company, has also introduced a biofermented solvent for the fragrance market that performs as well as its synthetic counterpart in many formulations and is inexpensive.

"We've gotten to the place where it kind of makes economic sense and performs as well or better than the alternatives," said Kyle Huston, Genomatica's product marketing manager.

Formulation experts say the next step for these highly effective plant extracts is to standardize and increase bioactive concentrations.

Overall, these developments are a good sign for brands looking to capitalize on the recent consumer interest in more natural, sustainable and biodegradable products.

Direct-to-consumer/retail hybrids in sales

2020 is the year of online shopping, and with more flexible pandemic restrictions and policies in the retail environment, consumers are beginning to venture back into the live shopping environment, but that doesn't mean online sales will die out.

Digital marketing and e-commerce experts say most cosmetic brands are leaning toward in-person models, retail and wholesale, because consumers have historically wanted to try products, but COVID-19 is forcing brands to rethink how to sell effectively during the lockdown.

According to the United Nations, online sales increased by more than $272 billion between 2018 and 2020.

Many companies have built more dynamic and interactive direct-to-customer online shopping experiences, and Shelly Socol, CEO of One Rockwell, said that in anticipation of this moment, brands have developed regular building quizzes or online concierge services that elevate online customer service to in-store levels.

"I think the difference [before the pandemic] was that you would put up your e-commerce site and create a really nice experience, but that's no longer enough," Socol said.

Katie McMahon, associate director of Croud's Biddable Media, said consumers are now so accustomed to shopping online that DTC sales are unlikely to fall back to pre-COVID levels.